Bistro Apetit by Marin Rendić

L'avis de Gault&Millau

Bistro Apetit is situated in the north part of Zagreb, on Jurjevska street and it is surrounded by tennis courts. Parking for guests is secured. Greenery and fresh air are bountiful here, which is especially important for the pandemic measures. A warm welcome in a lovely, neat environment. The owner and chef Marin Rendić prepares modern classics in a restaurant that radiates the same classic forms in its interior design. The staff is kind and knowledgeable about the food and drink menu. The menu from autumn 2020 represents classic dishes such as beef tartare, oxtail ragout, butternut squash risotto, white fish carpaccio, all with little, modern twists. With our aperitif, we were offered three different amuse-bouches, a visually stunning and most original was the small black pillow of dough, with asparagus and creamy goat’s cheese, alongside a bite-sized classic tuna tartare, and beef pâté. The homemade sourdough bread that the chef started to prepare from his own starters during the lockdown is worth every bite. The wine list is rich in carefully selected Croatian and foreign wines, with a nice selection of Champagne and sparkling wines, all backed up with a substantial wine offer by the glass. The 5-course tasting menu began with a remarkably fresh marinated scampi from the Kvarner region, in a combination with raspberry snow, citrusy mayonnaise, and young pea powder. Another exceptional scampi was a part of the aromatic Thai style soup, with cuttlefish, prawns, lemongrass and kefir lime, the scampi was perfectly cooked. The tartare from a 45-day dry-aged beef was very tasty and prepared halfway in between a classic beef tartare – and tuna tartare. The meat was cut into tiny cubes, seasoned with capers and spring onion, with a slight, spicy kick. We salute the decision not to use mayonnaise in the tartare, as it would take away from the flavour of the dry-aged meat, that stands as most important in this dish. The filet of Black Slavonian pig was slightly overcooked and dry but was accompanied by incredibly flavoursome sides: velvety smooth, sweet celeriac cream, an indulgent yam bonbon, fried to perfection in panko breadcrumbs, perfect to soak up the deep, sticky meat jus. Bistro Apetit and chef Rendić nurture an original approach in creating dishes, that is certainly worth the try.

D'autres bonnes adresses