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L'avis de Gault&Millau
The Brokenships Bistro with its picturesque, wisteria-embraced terrace and comfortable, minimalistic designed tables and chairs, is located in the old Upper Town of Zagreb. Set next to the museum bearing the same name, the ambience is comfortable and quiet, always packed during warm summer evenings, radiating with the youthful energy of those in the kitchen and those in charge of the service. Due to the many changes that have occurred in the restaurant’s team over the last few years, there are some minor problems in the service, but we are sure that they can be overcome. Here the style and the approach to cooking are committed to the original, which was set by chef Tvrtko Šakota, who was mentoring the kitchen staff whe the restaurant opened. Our Sunday lunch started with a technically perfect cookie of Grana Padano cheese and fennel jam, a small, panko-fried ball of turkey confit with a ramson mayo. The starters won us over, especially the mesmerizing, green colour of the ramson butter, that tasted of freshly foraged plants. With the homemade bread, an inspired version of the classic bread and butter.
The Polenta and cheese curd offered calming and indulging textures, with great flavours and aromas. As a main dish we had the Zagreb schnitzel and potato salad, a cordon-bleu veal steak filled with cheese and ham spread, served with one of the best potato salads you can find in the city. Brokenships offers reinvented food classics of Zagreb and the surrounding county, and we are yet to taste one that hasn’t thrilled us. Technically without fault, rich in flavour and textures, this dish deserves to be on the menu – both for Zagreb locals, and those discovering the traditional Zagreb food. Here the desserts are usually very good, but the one we tasted will stay for a long time in our memory. Parsnip, honey, and ginger cake, with a quenelle of wild chamomile ice cream. The use of vegetables gave an aromatic and moist cake, while the almost medicinal chamomile enriched the dessert with incredible aromas of the ice cream. The wine list surprises with great, but less known Croatian labels, and that also sets Brokenships Bistro on the very top of Zagreb’s modern bistrology list.