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L'avis de Gault&Millau
Hotel Lemongarden, wit its restaurant of the same name, has changed the perception of Sutivan as a tourist destination. Until a few years ago, Sutivan was one of the quieter small towns on Brač, ideal for family tourism and without major pretensions. The beautiful conversion of a group of old houses on the waterfront into a luxury boutique hotel has encouraged others to carefully renovate their houses and restaurants. With the arrival of the Lemongarden Hotel, which is among the most beautiful on the island, the clientèle has also changed. Today, stylish tourists and some occasional pop stars walk through Sutivan, and the whole place exudes a new elegance. Lemongarden Restaurant is right on the promenade, a few meters from the sea. We had our lunch on the elegant terrace of the restaurant, which is separated from passers-by by large planters. Under the large white umbrellas the tables were beautifully set. The inner hall is dominated by a long honey-colored wooden bar, and in the middle, between the tables with white tablecloths, there is a large lemon tree, surrounded by benches. The staff of Lemongarden is very professional, although we noticed that most of them speak Croatian poorly (or not at all). We had lunch at a restaurant on a hot summer day. As always the wine was chilled in a large ice bucket. The concept of the menu hasn’t changed much: a few light summer dishes, fish, shellfish, a variety of salads and pasta. We ordered the sea bass fillet with a finely roasted skin, on grilled vegetables: zucchini, yellow peppers and cherry tomatoes. The colours were nicely arranged, but we don’t understand why in the middle of summer, on the island of Brač, they do not use large juicy tomatoes from the local producers, instead of the cherry one that grow in greenhouses. The same goes for yellow peppers. This time again we had fresh mussels in a light white wine sauce and fresh parsley which were delicious. Although the restaurant is really elegant and tailored to an international audience, we feel they could highlight the local ingredients a little more.