Mano


L'avis de Gault&Millau

The restaurant Mano is situated in the wider centre of Zagreb, next to the Glyptotheque gallery and a short walk off from the garage parking of the Center Kaptol mall. With its lovely warm interior, the restaurant has outside sitting embraced in mellow shade, with greenery that shelters from street views. Mano has for a long while cherished the fine dining approach to every guest, and this was proven once again. Matija Bogdan is a chef that can be praised for his faultless technical cooking, backed up with Domagoj Zorbas, one of the finest sommeliers when it comes to guest-approaching skills. A very warm welcome began with outstanding flavours of the amuse-bouche: black seaweed cracker with tuna cream, probably the best Soparnik (thin, savoury phyllo pastry with wild chard) we have tasted, and an outstanding bonbon filled with ragout, that we will remember for its unique texture. The cold courses showed immaculate balancing of very clean, yet rich flavours, like the carpaccio of kohlrabi with branzino tartare. the fish course of wild branzino with radishes, fennel and pine nuts was faultless when it comes to the preparation of high quality ingredients and the combining a wide spectre of different textures. The dish gave an insight into a very English-styled approach to plating, with different preparations of the same produce. The deer fillet, as the main course, was juicy, buttery and tender, perfectly prepared, served alongside root vegetables, creating a combination that allowed every element to shine, with a very memorable, deep jus. Plates that leave the Mano kitchen are picturesque, with a large number of elements that work well together, at the same time suggesting a level of thought-out seriousness and devotion to fine dining cuisine. The produce is the star here, we have to mention the choice, the freshness and the knowledge that goes into the preparation of every single element on each plate. These are all points that go to Mano, alongside a far reaching wine list, they certainly place Mano amongst Zagreb’s best restaurants. Be sure to book well in advance.
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