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L'avis de Gault&Millau
We came to Vrana, by Lake Vrana, to be able to feel at least some of the charm of the former life in a Han (caravansaray) or Turkish inn from the 17th century. Maškovića Han was built by Jusuf Mašković, the supreme admiral of the Turkish fleet and the sultan’s dignitary. The builder, unfortunately, never enjoyed his mansion, because he was caught by the evil fate of the sultan’s sword. Three hundred and seventy years later, the Han was renovated and together with the good food of the Dalmatian hinterland, it offers also a sleepover. The drive to the restaurant and hotel Maškovića Han is a real pleasure for nature lovers. Tall plants along a narrow winding road, numerous bridges and birds - an ideal welcome. We came to the inn at dusk. The walled courtyard was beautifully lit. We chose a table under a tree that, if you come for lunch, gives a nice shade. Since Vrana is known for sheep, lamb and cheese, we chose on a menu that best describes the area. Lamb tartare sprinkled with fresh grated horseradish, served with fermented egg yolk, baked black olive paste and toasted homemade bread was a delicious start to the dinner. The spiciness of the horseradish and the olives blended nicely with the taste of the young lamb. For the main course, we chose a slow-cooked breaded lamb shank. Extremely soft meat to which the breadcrumb crust gave a crispy note. Lamb served on potato cream, with roasted onions and cherry tomatoes, is a reconstruction of an old local dish. Just a small complaint about the preparation technique of the patato cream which unfortunately was more sticky than creamy. For dessert, we chose baklava with pistachios. The sweet and juicy Turkish style baklava delighted us, especially because it was served with real Turkish coffee in a traditional cezve, a small long-handled pot with a pouring lip designed specifically to make Turkish coffee. The choice of wine by glass is limited, they only offer homemade Debit and Plavina. Debit fit nicely into the lamb menu. The new attractive menu in Maškovića Han was designed by the famous chef Tom Gretić, whose consulting services were used to raise the level of the gastronomic offer. And they succeeded, so they received their second Gault & Millau toque. Due to its beauty and history, Maškovića Han is very popular among domestic and foreign tourists, so in the summer season you should definitely book your place in advance to enjoy that really unusual gastronomic experience.