L'avis de Gault&Millau
Nobilion is a fine dining restaurant in the luxury boutique hotel Ikador, located by the sea, in Ika, near Opatija. The restaurant is decorated in a modern and minimalist style, dominated by pastel blue and gold colour. There is also a private dining room Riva privée chef’s table for up to 8 people, where the maître d’hôtel and the chef will take care of you. On warmer days, be sure to sit on the beautiful terrace with a view of the hotel pool and the entire Kvarner in the background. From the first moment in this restaurant you feel special, and the staff will do their best to make you stay that way until the very end. Our visit was during Easter, when they had a special offer, so we tasted a 5-course menu with a very elaborate wine pairing. Otherwise, there is a tasting menu of 5 or 7 courses as well as à la carte offer. We would definitely single out the hommage to Kali tuna: 9 different bites in which chef Dino Knežević showed all the splendor of his talent. The wine list is very good and the restaurant is a member of the prestigious Moët & Chandon Privilege Club, so they have quite a collection of rare champagnes. We started lunch with shiny marinated scampi (langoustines) tails. Only lightly marinated in citrus, sweet and firm scampi meat. This was followed by the plate that impressed us the most during our visit. The bear leek cream had an excellent, powerful flavour, and the creamy cow’s cheese a perfect balance in texture and flavour. A very good manipulation of a food that was at the peak of its season, and the chef once again showed how complex something seemingly simple can be. We then tasted the ravioli with lamb and fava bean cream in dried tomato sauce. Lamb and beans go great together, and when you add a great dough and dried tomatoes that give the dish the necessary contrast of flavours, you get another great plate. The main course was a rump steak served with beetroot risotto and goat cheese. The risotto was excellent, both in texture and rich in flavours. The rump steak was also very tasty, full of smoke, although our impression is that it should be a little less roasted. We finished lunch with a classic. A chocolate soufflé with homemade bourbon vanilla ice cream and raspberry coulis. We would have loved to have some more coulis as its sour taste gave some freshness to the rich chocolate flavour. Icador and Nobilion have only been around for a few years, and their chef Dino is very young. Despite this, they have already taken a very high position on the Croatian gastronomic scene. Our impression is that they will raise the bar over time. Prices are high, but if you take into account the overall impression, then you realize that it’s a great value for money. When you want a touch of luxury, head to Nobilion, where they will make sure you have an unforgettable experience.