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Sapore di mare
L'avis de Gault&Millau
A few meters from the sea, on the waterfront in Fažana, near the pear from which the boats depart for the islands of Brioni, there is a restaurant called Sapore di mare (in Italian it means Taste of the Sea). All the tables on the spacious terrace overlook the blue sea and the green oasis of the famous archipelago. The restaurant, that used to offer a traditional fish cuisine, made a big step forward by hiring the chef Damir Modrušan. One of the most famous Istrian chefs spent most of his working life in the restaurant Zigante. After many years of experience on the fine dining scene, he was ready for a new challenge, and Sapore di mare gave him a free hand to design and present a new menu. And indeed, in the simple ambience of a large family restaurant, the daily offer includes some new attractive dishes, which combine the freshness of seafood and fish with seasonal vegetables and fruits. We especially liked the delicious appetizers, from the cod creamy spread on grilled polenta medallions with caramelized onions, to the colorful salad with diced barely baked tuna, fennel and slices of orange. The chef used citrus fruits in the savor as well, a traditional dish with fried cold sardines, marinated in vinegar, with onions and spices. We couldn’t resist to the fresh grilled fish, caught a couple of hours before it arrived on the plate. Sapore di mare must improve the service and the wine list, which is mainly reduced to one producer. But their new cuisine is promising. When going on a trip to Brioni, be sure to go there for a tasteful lunch.