Cheese guru Xavier Thuret: cheese doesn't like water, but it likes wine
The world-renowned cheese guru Xavier Thuret, held a masterclass for the chefs of the best Croatian restaurants at Boogie Lab in Zagreb, organized by the President and Gault&Millau Croatia
Like Obelix who fell into a cauldron of magic potion, I feel like I fell into a magic pot, but with milk. After thirty years of experience in the world of cheese, I've been through everything: from production on the family farm, seasonal work in a local factory where I found myself when Lactalis bought the factory. They opened up the opportunity for me to develop through all spheres of cheesemaking: from production, sales, supplying stores and restaurants of famous chefs, a short period in marketing, until the creation of a special position of Ambassador for cheese in order to transfer knowledge about the history and culture of cheese all over the world. I have visited 43 countries so far. My mission is to create satisfaction, transfer knowledge, accept challenges and research trends. As I have been cooperating with the Croatian team for many years, I was happy to respond to the invitation for the President Masterclass in Croatia. " - said at the held masterclass Xavier Thuret, a cheese guru who in 2007 earned the title " Meilleur Ouvrier de France " ("The best craftsman in France " ). In the hundred years of this competition, only 26 cheesemakers have won the MOF award.
Xavier Thuret arrived in Zagreb at the invitation of Dukat, whose President is the leading cheese brand in Europe and Croatia. At the gala awards of the annual trophies of the international gastronomic guide Gault&Millau Croatia held in April, it was the President who awarded the Great Chefs of Tomorrow. Their reward was a unique experience: a visit to the Lactalis caves of Societe Roquefort, where Roquefort, one of the most famous French cheeses matures. Encouraged by this extraordinary experience, they wanted to transfer a piece of this story to Croatia. Thus, organized by Gault&Millau Croatia, on Thursday, September 19, some of the best chefs from all over Croatia gathered at Boogie Lab - a bistro, bakery and bar (this year's GM trophy for the best POP), for a cheese masterclass.
Zoran Ković, the director of Dukat, welcomed them, and then Xavier Thuret presented his story about cheeses, revealing that there are about 5,000 different cheeses in the world, of which even 1,200 are in France, and all of them have only three elements in common: milk, salt and rennet.
Part of the masterclass Xavier Thuret devoted to the presentation of three cheeses. The guests tasted each of them, first in their original flavor, then with wine because, as Xavier says: "cheese doesn't like water, but it likes wine“. Then small bites were served on five types of bread from Boogie Lab's rich offer, combined with different ingredients. Ivan Zlodre, the young chef of Boogie Lab and his culinary team created snacks that went well with the selected wines.
Thus, chevre, a light fresh goat's cheese, is served in three versions: on brioche toast with cherry tomato confit and basil, on roasted pumpkin with pickled onions and walnuts, and on focaccia with marinated peppers, capers and parsley. Royal Hill Extra Brut sparkling wine from the Danube vineyard in Erdut was served with the delicate chevre. Wine taste is dominated by the freshness of pear and peach aromas, with a pronounced citrus finish.
Another cheese, Comte le Montarlier, originating from the western part of the French Alps, is made from fresh unpasteurized milk and is aged in cellars for six months. It was served on a cracker crust with apple chutney and chives, then on brioche with chicken parfait and pickled cucumbers, and on baguette bread with plum jam and prosciutto. Malvazija Istria 2023 from the winery of the Damjanić family from Žminj was chosen for this cheese. A wine of strong minerality, with mild fruity notes and herbal aromas of peas and asparagus, proved to be a winning combination with the snacks served.
When presenting Societe Roquefort, a soft sheep's cheese with a noble mold, which matures in natural limestone caves, Xavier Thuret revealed a secret to the guests at the masterclass: instead of cutting it with a knife, it should be scraped with a spoon. In this way, its specificity - the white and blue parts - are mixed, and its soft texture, pronounced aroma and saltiness come to the fore. Chef Ivan Zlodre served it in two ways: in puff pastry filled with pear compote, Roquefort, walnuts and balsamic vinegar, and on rye bread crackers, quince paste, cheese and toasted hazelnuts. The fresh semi-sweet Muscat Žuti Štampar 2022 wine simply slid down the throat, and the sweet and abundant floral notes mixed with the intense scent of Muscat grapes from the Sveti Urban vineyard in Međimurje, matched perfectly with the legendary French cheese.
As a special treat, the guests finally had the unique opportunity to taste the exclusive edition of Societe Roquefort Caves Baragnaudes, the most prestigious Roquefort, which is produced in extremely limited quantities.
Xavier Thuret did not hide his satisfaction with how the cheeses from his homeland were presented in the performance of Boogie Lab. "For me, this was an extremely pleasant surprise because the chef connected the culture of bread with the culture of cheese and wine. At the same time he combined different textures in a way that preserved the original taste of cheese. Bread is the best partner for cheese and wine, and they are all connected by fermentation. Therefore, balance - nothing too much - is a real art for me. Beauty is in simplicity” - said Xavier Thuret.
Croatian chefs learned from a French cheese expert that his favorite cheese is Brie. He also revealed how to create an ideal tray for serving guests, and how cutting with a knife affects the taste of cheese. During the masterclass, the President also presented his Professional line of cream, butter and cheese products, designed especially for the Foodservice channel.
"The gastronomic guide Gault&Millau Croatia does not evaluate only restaurants, our desire is to influence the quality of local gastronomy by bringing together restaurant chefs, producers and distributors of food and wine. Masterclass by Xavier Thuret, Lactalis' ambassador and leading authority in the world of French cheeses, is a good example of this synergy" - say Ingrid Badurina Danielsson - director, and Dubravka Tomeković Aralica - executive director of the Croatian edition of Gault&Millau.
Photos: Goran Jakuš for Gault&Millau
