What has Côme de Cherisey focused on since taking over the company?

He says he has focused on deep restructuring, moving beyond the traditional publishing model to build Gault&Millau as a gourmet brand in France and internationally.

Why did Gault&Millau change its rating charts?

He explains that food on the plate accounts for only 70% of the score, while the overall guest experience also matters, including atmosphere, service, music and scents. This reflects what he calls fair criticism.

How does Gault&Millau position itself compared with Michelin?

Côme de Cherisey says the two guides complement each other. Michelin makes restaurants famous, while Gault&Millau takes more risks in discovering chefs and restaurants earlier in their journey.

What are his expectations for the digital edition?

He highlights the importance of a universal free app available in all countries where Gault&Millau operates, with the main value being editorial selection in a market dominated by free portals.

What are Gault&Millau’s revenue sources?

He says revenues mainly come from major sponsors in the food and beverage sector, especially quality partners that are often family-owned or French businesses, while restaurants do not pay to be included.

Côme de Cherisey : „I argue in favour of popular gastronomy“

Q: How is the 2018 edition different?

According to Côme de Cherisey, the 2018 edition is more about continuity than rupture. It includes 750 new entries, half of them young chefs, and reflects a strong focus on discovery and local products.

Published on 03/01/2018 at 00:00

The owner and CEO of the Gault&Millau, Côme de Cherisey, at the same time strict and a hedonist, has been watching French people’s eating habits to stay current and to introduce the yellow guide into the 21st century. However, he considers himself to be the promoter of "fair critic" and of high moral standards. We are bringing the interview Mr Cherisay had with Le Figaro magazine.

Le Figaro – How is the 2018 edition different?

Côme de CHERISEY – It in not, it represents continuity because discovery is in our DNA. This year we have 750 novelties, half of which are young chefs. However, 800 of the 6,500 restaurants from our base were closed. The economic crisis and terrorist attacks had their influence on this, but the profession itself is becoming more and more demanding. In addition, we noticed that the differences between the approaches of older and young chefs are disappearing. I am very happy that chefs have begun to use local products in their kitchens, all agricultural regions and their local production benefit from this. This is an exceptional message of hope.

What are you working on the most since you took over the company a year and a half ago?

On deep restructuring: instead of the traditional publishing model, where the form of the guide is completely abandoned, we aimed at developing a gourmet brand in France and abroad. That which was bringing 80% of our revenues five or six years ago now makes only 5%. Almost all gourmet guides practically disappeared, but two great ones, Michelin and Gault & Millau, are still here. Our goal is not to destroy someone but to recommend our favorites. The rating is not important; the restaurant can be rated with 11/20 (in France it is rated from 0/20 to 20/20) as well as with 19.5/20. It just means that the experiences are completely different. You can spend wonderful moments in a restaurant that is rated with 11/20.

In the head of the reader, 11 is less good than 14, is it not?

That is why I decided to change our rating charts. For us, the food on the plate represents only 70% of the mark. The change is made by the guests. Our inspectors, “ordinary people, who taste the food in real conditions, confirm this. Guests have many expectations: atmosphere, decoration, courtesy, serving order, music, scents... So this experience is an integral part of "fair rating“, the one required by Henri Gault and Christian Millau. I do not want to get caught in the trap of elitism or restaurants reserved only for the selected ones. What interests me is the concept of eating good food. I always like to say that I am fighting for "popular gastronomy" because gastronomy is a word that excludes, while popular gastronomy means that everyone can eat well.

What is your position in comparison with Michelin?

We complement each other. I am very proud of the fact that there are two relevant French guides in the world. Since we are small, we can take the risk of discovering, whereas Michelin is there to make restaurants famous. Every chef at the beginning of his career dreams of Michelin stars. However, they all know that Gault & Millau is the one who will discover them and take them to those stars.

What are your expectations from the digital edition?

We have a universal free app for all the countries we are present in. This is important because in the international offer today there are only free portals or our universal application, which is also free and offers our selection. Therefore, the most important thing on this level is the choice.

Are you not causing yourself harm in relation to the printed guide?

The printed version of the guide represents less than 5% of Gault & Millau’s revenues, so it has become a communication channel. The guide is published in all the countries as a brand support.

So what are the sources of your revenues?

Big sponsors from the Food & Beverage sector: food, beverages, coffee, chocolates...quality partners who are mostly family businesses and / or French businesses. As we do not ask the restaurant to pay us, we can say that we are completely objective and ethical.